Soren’s Mythicard Strategy Guide

Hi! I’m Soren. I have been playing Mythicard since the beginning of it’s Steam Early Access and as of the time of this writing have climbed to 9k with an 86% first place rate. I have heard from a couple new players that they would appreciate a strategy guide and so I’ve written down a couple of pointers. These ideas are more rules of thumb than strict rules; there will always be exceptions and further nuance, but these are the basic principles to play by.

Basic Information to Know

(a lot of this comes from the game’s creator Crackoder)

  1. The number of cards you get on each level is 4 for level 1, 5 for level 2, and 6 for levels 3-5. This means you will get more overall card selection if you level to at least level 3.
  2. The cost of each of the levels is 4 gold for level 2, 6 gold for level 3, 8 gold for level 4, and 10 gold for level 5.
  3. Without any affinities you start the game with 5 gold. You start off gaining 4 gold per round and the amount of gold you get per turn is increased by 1 gold on rounds 4, 8, and 13 up to 8 gold per round. Gold saves between rounds.
  4. The person with the most cards in play attacks first. If it is tied each player has a 50% chance to attack first.
  5. Tripling a card doubles it’s non-warcry effects (not including any shields it has). The tripled card has stats equal to the base stats of two copies of that card plus any buffs that have been applied to them.
  6. For a certain level, there is a set probability of getting a particular level of card as shown in Crackoder’s handy table here. The important rule of thumb from the table is that if you are looking for a card on a specific level you will have a higher probability to get it if you are one level higher (so if you’re looking for a level 2 card you have a higher probability of getting it if you are on level 3).

Basic Strategy


Early Game

  1. In the early game evaluate cards based solely on their attack, defense, and shields. You probably won’t be able to get any synergies early game so the person who wins each fight will be determined by how big their individual cards are.
  2. When you are fighting opponents you think might be weak, take the opportunity to level to be stronger for later fights.

Card Placement

  1. Place cards which do something when they attack near the front so that they have a chance to attack before they are killed.
  2. Place cards from highest attack to lowest attack. If you place lower attack cards first they have the possibility of hitting the opponent’s cards without killing them when cards you put further back would have killed them in one shot.
  3. Place cards with taunt near the back so that they don’t attack and kill themselves before the opponents’ cards have a chance to attack them.


  1. Whenever you decide to shuffle, think about what cards you are looking for. To do this it is really helpful to take a look at the ingame Card Preview so that you know what cards are in the game. This makes sure you aren’t spending money rolling and rolling without any purpose.
  2. On each of your turns, stop shuffling when you can no longer buy the cards you are looking for with your remaining money. For example, if you are looking for a card that costs 4 gold stop shuffling when you get to 4 gold because if you shuffle one more time and hit the card you’re looking for you will have to waste a gold saving it. You can always use your gold to shuffle more in the upcoming turns. If you take this approach you will rarely (if ever) need to save cards, saving a lot of gold.


Buying Cards

  1. The real cost of a card is the gold you pay to buy it minus the gold you pay to sell it, because you will end up selling all but 8 of the cards you buy in any game. For example, the real cost of Pan (with no affinities) is 2 - 1 = 1 gold and the real cost of Morpheus is 3 - 1 = 2 gold. This means that Morpheus actually costs twice as much as Pan (not only 50% more as you might originally think).
  2. This makes affinities which increase the amount of gold cards sell for more better than you might think because they decrease the real cost of all cards by 1 and makes affinities that increase the cost of cards worse because they increase the real cost of cards more dramatically than their stated costs (for instance you might think God Odds increases the cost of Morpheus by ⅓ but it actually increases its cost by ½ because it’s real cost goes from 2 to 3).


Late Game

  1. The two main late game strategies are to use warcries which buff the types of cards you have (Eos, Athena if you have a lot of mortals, Oceanus if you have a lot of sea, ect.) or use cards which don’t care about how big your opponents’ cards are (Mind Control cards, Erebus, Charon, ect.). At this point in the game buying cards with decent attack and defense (even level 4 and 5 cards) will fall behind those two strategies. With either approach you will be searching for a lot of specific cards. This makes affinities which increase the cost of shuffling very bad in the late game.
  2. Here is when you can also start trying to play around what you think your opponents have. For example, if you know they have an Eros you might buy a Persephone to counter it. If you know they have a taunt magic shield card you might put a small magic damage card you have in the front to bump off the shield.